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YORKING Brake Pipe Repair Kit 3/16" Pipe Flaring Tool Kit 25FT Car Brake Line 10mm Replacement Cutter Bender Brake Line Repair Kit for Car Original Braking System

£9.9£99Clearance
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You can use the flare too to straighten the hose by tightening it in the part that grips and gradually moving along. I can do anything mechanical if I put my mind to it and I don't think repairing a brake pipe would be out of my league, its just a matter of having the right tools to do it with and you make it sound like a specialist only job, if I listened to people who said "specialist only" I would never attempt anything. We supply customised brake accessories for all makes and models of car, together with a choice of brake fitting kits containing everything you need to repair or replace whichever part requires work. There wasn't loads of pipe left showing to work with but as this is so small it makes life really easy. This is possible with the car on a full height lift and after removing various shields etc, maybe the fuel tank, it will probably not be possible on axle stands.

Now it is just a case of working backwards from the rear of the car to the front making bends and fastening the pipe into the body fixings as you go. The only downside with this kit is it's a one trick pony, 3/16 single and double flairs nothing else. Brake fluid must be kept topped up and should be fully replaced every couple of years as it becomes corrosive over time. Brake pipe flares are the way in which the end of your brake pipe is "flared" out to joint the next brake fitment, they do not relate to the type of fitment itself. You can leave it on your hands for quite some time during a repair, but it will eventually make them red and itchy.

The time has come to fit new brake lines, I intend to make my own so will need a cutting/flaring kit. Complete Accessories] Brake line pipe repair kit includes brake pipe + pipe cutter + 10* joint + pipe bender + 7* flaring tool. Depending on which brake line you are replacing you may or may not need to get the car completely off the ground and supported on axle stands. You, may need to replace it with cupro nickel pipe which is significantly more maleable and far easier to flare. As has been said, your first issue will be trying to flare the current steel lines if you chose to cut and splice in a piece.

Do the final flare fitment and bolt it down into the junction box - congratulations you have fitted the pipe! Sure, go for kunifer if you want or have to, but unless you are using it on a track day car you won't notice the difference. Copper is expensive, too soft and bendy to prefabricate and without extensive prefabrication manufacturing costs would rise. I've just replaced all the brake pipes on my 90 including some flares made on the vehicle without a single failure. It is not as bad as some people think (I've accidentally squirted it in my eyes and I was fine), but have some water handy to douse yourself if you have an accident with it (e.Take the car for a drive, first gently test your brakes and then choose somewhere safe and try an emergency stop. You can probably get away with pre-bending the pipe on the front brake pipes, but I'd really recommend you do not pre-bend the pipe if you are replacing the rear brake pipes or you will never get it over the subframe.

However, I have tried both brake fluid and copper grease over the years - brake fluid works well for about 3 years then the pipes bond to the fitments (not good! If any air bubbles are left in the brake lines your brakes will not work properly and will feel spongy when you press the brake pedal.Garages and dealers can't use the triple check rule, they can only double check, which is one good reason I always work on brakes myself and I've never let them (or anyone else) near the braking systems on any of my cars.

Have a look at the photo to the left and familiarise yourself with the location of the brake fluid reservoir and junction box. The cretinous old duffer known as Scotty Kilmer actually shows how to repair a brake line using these in one of his videos, despite the packet being clearly marked as not suitable for brake lines! That said, bleeding brakes is simpler and quicker if all four wheels are off the ground and accessible, so for the reasons given in the recommendations section of this guide, if possible I'd always get the car completely off the ground anyway. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data. With the tray removed you should be able to see all the brake pipe to body fixings and gain access to them.

Finally seal the end of the brake pipe with a female brake pipe end cap and make sure you clean up any spilt brake fluid with rags immediately as it is very corrosive. Place the brake pipe ends into the jam jar to catch any fluid and seal the hole in the junction box with a male brake pipe end cap. I was more concerned with him topping it up so the fluid doesn't drain out of the ABS module, I believe they are a right pain to bleed back up. This main lines connect to the rear brake line from the front and runs the full underbody of the vehicle. You need to make sure that none of the brake pipe fittings is leaking and that everything is tightened to the correct torque especially if you removed any calipers to paint them.

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